How to achieve well groomed shiny and healthy hair
By Ananda Mahony ND

We wash, style and blow-dry in order to tame our often un-ruly tendrils. Yet some of the everyday hair care practices we use are actually doing more damage than good. This article takes a look at the issues we face in our efforts to achieve well groomed, shiny and healthy hair.

The average human head has about 100 000 hair follicles and from each one emerges a shaft of hair. Nourished by blood vessels the follicles produce new keratin cells promoting the constant growth of new hair. The inner layer or medulla, which is protected by the outer keratin cells, contains pigment cells (for colour), fat granules and oxygen. Separate glands run alongside the follicle producing sebum, a natural hair and scalp conditioner. Straight, shiny hair is the result of sebum produced by the glands easily travelling the length of the hair shaft. By contrast, curly hair will often look and feel dry because the sebum has a more difficult time getting from the base of the hair shaft to the tip.

Hair is predominately made up from protein so a deficiency can result in changes to the colour and texture resulting in brittle, weak and thinning hair. Eating protein 3-5 week will help maintain your levels. If you have had a protein deficiency you will notice hair returning to healthy condition within 12 weeks of correcting the deficiency, as the new hairs grow through.

In addition diets high in sugar and animal fats may contribute to poor hair health. An imbalance between good and bad fat consumption can either lead to an overly dry and flaky scalp and dry hair or excessive oil production. Correcting the imbalance will help to normalise the health of the scalp and the relative dryness or oiliness of the hair.  Reducing highly processed and sugar rich foods will not only help hair health, it will also improve general health.

While internal factors affect hair health, external factors also have the potential to damage hair. If you have ever washed your hair with soap you would know that it tends to get tangled and knotty afterwards. The outer “scales” on the hair shaft stand up when in the presence of an alkali, such as soap and get caught up creating a tangled, messy “do”. The scales will lie down flat in the presence of an acid such as lemon juice or vinegar, which is why vinegar hair rinses were traditionally used after washing.   This is where conditioners come in, their key functions to make the hair scales lie back down and coat the hair so that it feels smooth again.

In addition the type of surfactant used to clean hair in shampoos can be problematic with those such as sodium or ammonium lauryl sulphate contributing to irritated and dry scalp and hair issues. Softer surfactants such as  decyl glucoside, coco glucoside or coco betaine, are better choices for both hair and scalp health.

In general try to avoid conditioners and stying products with added silica as these will just build up on the hair shaft and create “artificially” shiny and silky hair. They will also increase the need to wash hair which in turn dries out hair again, creating a cycle of poor hair management and ultimately, poor hair health.

How often we wash hair is an individual choice however, most people tend to wash their hair too frequently, each time stripping back the protective oils from the scalp and hair. If your scalp is dry or itchy, try waiting one extra day before washing allowing the sebum to protect the scalp for a longer period. Twice weekly for normal to dry hair is a good benchmark.  Obviously oily hair needs to be washed more frequently and often daily. Washing hair often entails
blow-drying or straightening which if done excessively, damage the hair shaft. The less you dry & straighten, the better your hair condition will tend to be.

Hair styling agents can also impact on the health of the hair and more importantly your general health. In conventional styling products synthetic plastics such as PVP (polyvinyl pyrrolidone polymer), acrylic copolymers, VA (vinyl acetate)  Polymer and Acrylamide polymer, are used as holding agents, all of which are synthetic petroleum based plastics. While these may not be specifically damaging to your hair, they are not environmentally friendly and in addition are easily absorbed through the scalp thereby contributing to the total toxic load your body has to deal with. Look instead for natural products such as beeswax or coconut oil based products for strong hold pastes or gels and sugar biopolymer based products from corn or vegetables instead of hair spray or mousse.

 Please go to the following link to   View the vitaleblog video about our shampoo and conditioner by Ananda Mahony MD

10 Reasons To Go "All Natural"
By Ananda Mahony ND

The term "natural" is somewhat misleading with regard to use in cosmetics. In Australia and the US manufacturers can add 5% of a natural ingredient to a synthetic and call a product natural. This is generally regarded as "greenwashing" and such products aren't considered natural at all. So what do you look for to get the REAL benefits from truly natural products?

1. Truly natural products contain no synthetic ingredients such as artificial colours or fragrances. Artificial fragrances are amongst the most irritating ingredient in skin care with the ability to cause or significantly contribute to irritating skin conditions such as eczema, dermatitis, rashes and hives. You will notice the difference in your skin when you avoid such ingredients.

2. Natural products contain no potentially harmful ingredients such as petrochemicals, mineral oils, sodium lauryl sulphate and propolene glycol. According to Skin Deep, an Environmental Working Group in the US, many of the synthetic ingredients used (in the US and Australia) in everyday skin care are potentially toxic to humans.

3. Natural skin care is formulated to support the healthy functioning of our skin from within and without. Humans absorb up to 60% of any substance applied to our skin. It has been calculated that the average women can absorb up to 2kg of different chemicals through their skin each year. By using natural products you ensure that what you are absorbing is benefiting your skin and body, promoting radiance and health.

4. Our bodies have to break down, detoxify and excrete any substance we put on them. This puts an extra burden of toxicity on the body and is of particular concern for young babies and children whose organs of elimination are not fully developed. Reduce your toxic burden by using whole, unrefined natural products.

5. Natural skin & body care products contain nutrients, including naturally occurring antioxidants, amino acids, botanical extracts, pure essential oils and essential fatty acids in their holistic form which is more compatible with our skin and bodies. This includes nutrients such as grape seed (rich in phytochemicals that support the skin), rose hip oil (rich in vitamin C), Carrot oil (rich in vitamin A), pumpkin seed oil (rich in zinc), olive oil (rich in squalene) to name but a few. These ingredients promote healthy skin by nourishing from the outside in.

6. Natural cosmetics are more active. Excluding water, often contain up to 95% active ingredients rather than 5% active ingredients in a 95% inert (non-active) base as in many of everyday personal care products and cosmetics. You will notice a difference when you use natural products.

7. Wholly natural products are not tested on animals.

8. Many of the suppliers of natural skin care are local and cottage industries. Buying these products supports sustainable manufacturing processes, the ability to maintain quality control by hand making small quantities in order to provide fresh product, small business enterprise and local communities.

9. Natural products are environmentally friendly. Recent studies have shown that the chemicals and toxins found in most skin care products have a harmful effect on the environment as well as they take longer to break down than whole, unrefined ingredients.

10. Value for money. Natural products are often cheaper than synthetic products as they don't have to compete in the hyped brand focused market. You are also paying for active rather than inert ingredients. When considering the benefits available form natural skin care the value of natural products outweighs anything else on the market.
Ananda Mahony ND

Ananda Mahony ND is a naturopath and holistic skin specialist.
Her practice focuses on the treatment of skin conditions and Food
As Medicine.

Ananda also owns Vitale Natural Skin & Body Care, a natural & organic skin care store in Paddington. for more details go to www.vitalenatural.com.au

This article remains the copyright of Ananda Mahony